Big Tubes

A rough but fairly level hike to and around two collapsed lava tubes. This trail takes you through an open forest containing a variety of trees such as aspen, ponderosa pine, piñon and juniper. The lava tubes to which you hike are large and long (one of the largest in North America). They are unlike anything else you will see while hiking.
Caterpillar collapse

Hike data:

Controlling agency: El Malpais National Monument
Location in the state: West-central; El Malpais National Monument
Trailhead waypoint(s): BIGTUB
Elevation:
start: 7598ft; 2316m end: 0ft; 0m
min: 7598ft; 2316m max: 7637ft; 2328m
Elevation gain/loss: 39 ft; 12 m
Length: 1.49 mi; 2.40 km.
How long it took us (HH:MM): 03:30.
Cleanliness: 10/10
Trail usage: 0.00 people/hour. No people/hour data. Usage is medium in the summer, light in other seasons.
Trail Condition: Rough, but easy to follow.
Fee: $0.00.
When we hiked it: 2000-09-16.
Trailhead facilities: Toilets, picnic area.
Special features of the hike: Scenery, geology.
When to hike: All year. Start early in the summer to avoid the heat. Winter accessibility depends on the amount of snow on county road 42; call the range station for information.
General comments: Boots with good ankle support are important, as the lava is uneven. The lava is also sharp, so a fall could lead to an unpleasant injury; bring a first-aid kit. One time, Diana cut her knee through a kneepad and three other layers of clothing.

Maps:

Map showing the location of the trailhead

Getting to the trailhead:

Take exit 81 from I-40 and head south for a total of 23.9 miles. This is the El Malpais visitor center. It is a good idea to stop in here and inquire about getting to the trailhead. If it has rained recently, the road can be impassible. Also, check the forecast to see if rain is likely.
Continue from the visitor center 3.6 miles to the junction with County road 42. Turn left onto 42. A sign indicating that this road takes you past the Chain of craters will help you know you have found the right road.
Drive about 4.1 miles down 42. You will see a sign indicating a left turn to get to the Big Tubes area. Go left (this may be indicated as NPS road 300). After about 2.6 miles a sign indicates the Big Tubes parking area to your left.

The hike:

Trailhead sign

The trail takes off from the east side of the parking lot This trail is a cairn trail. It is easy to follow, as the cairns are large and there are plenty of them.

You start out walking in amongst Aspen and Ponderosa pine. The aspen end not long after you start, replaced by piñon and juniper.

Some of the trail is across aa lava. This lava is rough, sharp, and often clinks as you walk on it. Often, aa is formed of varying-sized, loose pieces of rock. It is easy to twist an ankle, so watch your step.
Aa lava
Pahoihoi lava
The other predominant form of lava out here is pahoehoe. It is smoother, sometimes ropy in appearance. You appreciate these differences in lava after hiking on both of them. The pahoehoe is much easier to walk on.
This photo was taken by Diana Northup.
After a little more than a quarter mile (about 0.5km), you come to a sign indicating various choices you can make (GPS: BTSIGN). For this hike turn left, heading towards Caterpillar collapse. You will return from the right.
Big Tubes sign
Collapsed lava tube with a cave at the end
Off on your right is one of the large lava tubes with portions collapsed. You walk past the climb-down into Big Skylight Cave (this cave is open to the public. Please read these words about caving if you want to enter the cave. Note that most of the caves on the monument are closed to public entry to protect them).
The trail follows this trench for a while. Besides getting different views of the trench, you get a chance to see some of the plant diversity out here. For example, the trail goes past some wild grapes (pictured here).
Wild grapes
The entrance to Four Windows Cave
You cross the trench at caterpillar collapse (GPS: CTRPLR), and then follow the other side of it down until you reach Four Windows Cave (GPS: 4WINDO). Four Windows is open to the public; please read these words about caving if you want to enter the cave.

You leave Four windows and cross a bridge across the trench, where you will find a sign and a cairn. You can return to Big Skylight cave by following the cairn trail which takes off behind you as you look at the sign. However, doing so would prevent you from seeing Seven Bridges. Therefore, follow the cairn trail which leads to the right of the sign. A view up the trench showing one of the bridges is to the right.

From here, follow the cairn trail up the trench and back to Big Skylight Cave, where you find the trail back to the parking lot.

Looking down the trench toward the seven bridges

Plants we saw along the trail:

Animals we saw along the trail:

Reader comments about this hike:

On Mon Jun 19 10:54:30 2006 Ron Fernandez from Albuquerque,NM said:
This is an excellent review of this trail, with good directions to find the trail head. Finding the trail head could be difficult without these directions. I have hiked this trail several times and explored the lava tubes. Please be aware that safety equipment is very important in the lava tubes, follow advisories regarding 3 light sources, helmets, gloves and good sturdy hiking boots.

Thank you for your professional descriptions of this hike, and all of the attachments.

On Fri Jul 7 21:14:08 2006 jay davis from mcqueeney,Texas said:
If you get off the main trail it is easy to get lost.Take plenty of water,also a whistle or small airhorn.The lava absorbs sound so hollering cant always be heard easily. i got lost for 6 hours on july 04 2006

On Sat May 10 17:31:18 2008 Joe Bertrand from Somewhere said:
Just got through hiking the trail. FABULOUS. I am a little out of shape (but not bad for a 45 yr old)so my quads were a little shaky 1/2 way into the trail. Going inside the tube was very interesting and going up the hole to get out was somewhat thrilling.

Going down to Caterpillar Crawl I saw a baby rattlesnake. Not sure what kind, but it sure was cute.

On Sat Jun 14 12:33:03 2008 Dennis from Duncanville Texas said:
In the early 1970's I hiked with Albq Sierra Club to a BLM-controlled area (not El Malpais) where we explored several subway tunnel sized lava tubes. (I toted a car headlight wired to a gel cell battery for light.) We also took a side trip to a small and steep, closed-ended tube that was full of ice. Inside, past a tight squeeze, were walls covered with ice crystals, while the rear of the cave was thick with what someone called fossil ice. Buried in the ice at the floor was the top of a ladder. Speculation was that the cave was used as cold storage by indians and possibly by guanno miners. I have a few B&W photos of the cave, but there isn't enough detail in them to reveal anything useful.

I've long forgotten how to find this cave and every time I mention it I get the same answer, the known ice cave is the commercial one near Grants.

Does anyone know how to find this BLM cave, and, more importantly, will they admit it?

Thanks

On Sat Jun 13 07:39:23 2009 Hal from Somewhere said:
My wife & I want to know what kind of gloves you are talking about having for this hike.... also, do you think good bike helmets would be ok? Does the hike take around 3.5 hours for just about 1.5 miles because every step takes time, or is it because of extra time exploring in the caves, etc.? Do you go into & come out of the caves from the same opening? Thanks in advance for answers, & congrats on an amazingly detailed web site!

later, the webmaster replied:
Are you planning on going in the caves or just staying on the surface?

If you will be staying on the surface, you do not need any helmets. For caving, ideally, you want caving or climbing helmets. We have once or twice had a non-caver with a bicycle helmet in the cave. The biggest issue is light. Caving helmets are designed to have lights attached. Bicycle helmets not so.

For caving, I wear bicycle gloves with leather palms. I have friends who wear good leather work gloves. When I am staying on the surface, I do not wear gloves.

The time is due to the roughness of the lava. Plus, we take pictures, look at the plants, etc.

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